By Natalie Covher

A birthday party, held Oct. 20 at St. Anthony Catholic Church in Natchitoches, celebrated the life of John Oswald Colson, better known as the filé man.

Colson has been making filé most of his life. His mother and the generations before her all provided the Cane River community with fresh filé, red pepper and other seasonings. Using a traditional pilon, a large tree hollowed out much like a giant mortar and pestle, he pounds the leaves into the fine, fragrant, bright green seasoning, filé. He demonstrates at conferences, festivals and educational events, teaching and preserving the art.

“I’ve known him for years, I went to school with his daughter,” said Scotty Williams. “I see him at every folk festival. He’s always there doing file demonstrations, telling people how and when to harvest it, and explaining its importance to the culture of the area. Beyond the file he is just really a cool guy. There’s never any pressure when you’re hanging out with Oswald.”

At the birthday party, people dined on meat pies, jambalaya, corn bread and other foods in the church hall. One of the highlights of the party was the cakes. Some were decorated with filé leaves made of fondant, but the one that stood out was the car. “It’s based off this old car that’s sat under the carport for the last 40 years,” joked Tracey Colson Tantee. “Everyone knows which house is ours because of the car. The cake even has the same license plate.”

Colson’s process of making filé is now considered a folk art and the special flavor that seems so rich to his filé is the story in the hands that create it.

“My dad is a fixture in the Cane River Community and I thought people would enjoy a chance to celebrate with him,” said Tracey. “He’s not your typical 80-year-old. He always surrounds himself with young people. He is a natural teacher, it is as if he has a bunch of extra kids whom he’s taught everything in his head.”

Sassafrass isn’t Colson’s only passion. “I met him at the Badin Roque House,” said Robert Caldwell. “He showed me how to make the poteaux-en-terre or “post in hole” construction. He taught me how to maintain historic buildings. When I found out he had an interest in food we talked about common food heritage.”

He is known by many names and has lived a colorful life to say the least. He is full of stories of Cane River, the traditions, but most importantly the people.

“We became friends years ago when I was doing some research with the National Parks Service,” said Susan Dollar. “My favorite memories with him are riding down Cane River listening to him tell stories.”
Colson moved to Chicago as a young man, then spent time in California, however Cane River always called him back. Midsummer into late fall you can find him pounding away, making his filé.

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